The Mercato di Testaccio is more than just a neighborhood market—it’s a gateway into Rome’s culinary soul. For travelers interested in discovering the city through its traditional flavors, shopping and cooking with ingredients from this market offers an unforgettable experience. One of the most iconic dishes you can prepare with what you find here is Pasta all’Amatriciana, a beloved Roman classic.
Whether you’re joining a hands-on cooking class or simply exploring independently, this dish is a must-try for anyone passionate about Rome food tours and authentic Italian cuisine.
What to Buy at Testaccio Market for Amatriciana
A walk through Testaccio Market reveals everything you need to prepare a proper Amatriciana—fresh, local, and high-quality ingredients offered by knowledgeable vendors who often have generations of culinary experience behind them.
Guanciale (Cured Pork Jowl)
- Found at traditional pork butchers inside the market.
- Essential for its deep, savory flavor and perfect fat content, guanciale is the base of any real Amatriciana.
Pecorino Romano DOP
- Available at cheese stalls offering regional specialties.
- Salty and sharp, this aged sheep’s milk cheese balances the richness of the guanciale and adds texture.
San Marzano Tomatoes (or premium canned whole tomatoes)
- Found at produce vendors or those specializing in preserved goods.
- San Marzano tomatoes are low in acidity, naturally sweet, and perfect for sauce-based dishes.
Bucatini or Rigatoni Pasta
- Sold by market vendors who stock artisanal dried pasta from Lazio and surrounding regions.
- Bucatini is traditional, but rigatoni works equally well for holding the sauce.
Dried Chili Pepper (Peperoncino)
- Available at spice stands or fresh from produce stalls.
- Adds a touch of heat that rounds out the sauce’s flavor profile.
White Wine (optional)
- Available in nearby enotecas or wine stalls.
- Used to deglaze the pan after browning the guanciale for additional depth.
Traditional Amatriciana Recipe (Serves 4)
Ingredients:
- 400g bucatini or rigatoni
- 150g guanciale, cut into thin strips
- 400g San Marzano tomatoes (canned or fresh, peeled and crushed)
- 60g Pecorino Romano, finely grated
- 1 dried chili pepper or a pinch of red chili flakes
- White wine (a splash, optional)
- Salt, for the pasta water
- Black pepper, to taste (optional)
Instructions:
- Render the guanciale
Place guanciale in a cold pan and slowly raise the heat to medium. Cook until the fat has rendered and the meat is golden and crisp. This usually takes 5 to 8 minutes. - Deglaze (optional)
If using white wine, add a small splash to the pan to deglaze. Let it evaporate completely, which takes about a minute. - Add the tomatoes
Stir in the crushed tomatoes and the crumbled chili. Let the sauce simmer gently for 10 to 15 minutes. Stir occasionally, allowing the flavors to meld and thicken. - Cook the pasta
In a separate pot, bring salted water to a boil. Cook the bucatini or rigatoni until al dente. Reserve a small cup of pasta water, then drain the pasta. - Combine pasta and sauce
Add the pasta to the sauce and toss to coat. If needed, add a splash of reserved pasta water to loosen the sauce. - Add Pecorino
Remove from heat and stir in half of the grated Pecorino Romano. Plate and finish with the remaining cheese. - Serve
Serve immediately while hot, optionally garnished with freshly ground black pepper.
A Roman Classic with a Testaccio Touch
What makes the Amatriciana special when prepared with ingredients from Testaccio Market is its connection to place. The guanciale is cut by local butchers who know the craft, the tomatoes are selected by vendors who pride themselves on seasonal quality, and the Pecorino comes from regional producers whose cheese-making traditions stretch back centuries.
This dish represents the ethos of Rome food tours: experiencing local life not just by eating in restaurants, but by walking the streets, talking with vendors, and understanding the story behind each ingredient.
More Than a Recipe—A Cultural Experience
For visitors who want to deepen their culinary journey, consider joining a Rome food tour that includes a stop at Mercato di Testaccio. You’ll not only taste the flavors of the city but also meet the people behind them.
And if you’re planning where to eat after your home-cooked Amatriciana, our guide to the best trattorias in Rome will lead you to some of the most beloved, authentic spots in the city.
Amatriciana is more than a pasta dish—it’s a reflection of Rome’s working-class heritage and a celebration of simple, honest ingredients. And nowhere captures that better than Testaccio. Preparing it with ingredients sourced directly from the market connects you to the rhythm of the city in a way few experiences can.
For anyone curious about Roman cuisine, Testaccio offers a rare and enriching opportunity to go beyond the plate—and into the very roots of the Eternal City’s culinary culture.
ROME FOOD TOURS WITH YOU LOCAL ROME